It would be nice to see a tutorial using python skin or other snake skins

some items are cheapest when you directly buy them from the source, for example: stitching clam and tools are cheapest directly from Vergez Blanchard. Some of the stitching clams or the clamping pliers are even twice as much through resellers or ebay! It's always good to compare the prices. Wuta has nice wing dividers and pricking irons of great price/quality value.

philip's course on hot stamping covers this, super easy tricks to always get it right

* Also: in case you decide to buy a sewing machine I would avoid Van Dam industrie BV (vadana.nl). I placed my first order there and had to cancel it due to a lot of issues and broken promises. It was never delivered and I later heard they were not an official durkopp adler dealer.

Hi congrats on the business deal! I am from the Netherlands too and I have bought my bell skiver for around €999,-. It is from Global and does a great job if you maintain it well. I bought it at Wim Vinken service. They were great with delivery and explanation in the way it works or needs maintenance. I believe I got a small discount because I could pay the full invoice within a week. Maybe this is helpful. Whichever machine is best to choose really depends on the products you make. I know Andrevo sells some secondhand bell skivers and sewing machines as well, but I never bought there.

@Daniel W. either that or maybe it could be residue edge paint like Philip mentioned in the review? But I have never seen my Regad look as glowing hot like this one.. It did look impressive when I first watched the video so mission accomplished :-)

Lol the first thing I thought about was that exact Equus video. When it's that hot it would almost bubble and burn the edge paint.

I'm looking forward!

I will check it out next time I visit Paris and might purchase one, thanks for the insight

With free hand stamping it's almost impossible to apply even pressure, just my experience of course. I could never get this right until I got my Metallic Elephant. I have also heard that the alphabet or logo pieces used for the regad are hard to warm up consistently since there is so much material to heat up. It is an option but not 100% recommended for the best results.

@Daniel.W Thank you for your insight :-) I do have 2 F tips which I love to use for creasing, but I was considering the E tip for using it in an angle to "round" the 90 degree cut edge. I thought this might compress the leather in a uniform rounded edge? Not sure if this would work though. It would be nice to see a picture! @Leathercraft Masterclass do you think this could work?

Nice edge and improvement! What did the trick eventually? Hot creasing and painting while curved?

@Fadi @hurkoj You’re both more than welcome! It made cutting patterns 10x easier for me

Mine is from Global and was around €1000 new excl. vat I believe. This one works great for me and it's the only one we ever used at school. I did once use the exact same Global machine at an internship (secondhand) and it seemed to be cursed. It would always break down and "eat" the leather no matter how often technicians came to look at it. I think it might had to do with the original owner possibly ruining the stone and knife. Buying these machines secondhand can be tricky. So if you buy it new and learn how to use it (ask the suplier all the ins and outs, write down the steps for sharpening etc, when they deliver you must ask them to show you the steps), you can definately use this one without breaking the bank with 2k+ € machines.

Very impressive work! Beautiful leather as well.

Beautiful work! I have always wondered how the leather covered snaps are made.

Hi, You could maybe make another gusset and add the bottom to that. Similar to the bag down below but you'd use the technique on the bottom instead of on the sides. You need one extra pattern for this. A strip with no extra seam allowance on one side (which would be lined up with the bottom of the bag) and extra seam allowance on the other side (5/10 mm). Connect the outer edges making the strip into a circle. The round pattern (bottom) should also have an extra 5/10 mm seam allowance. You sew this circle to the strip first (seam allowance to seam allowance) and then place this gussett in the bottom. ps: make sure you skive the seam allowance, otherwise it pushes the bag out of shape. I hope this makes sense, kind of difficult to explain!

I have always used thick texon for bottoms. I recently bought microfibre from Mando, FR which I have yet to try! An acquaintance recommended it to me. It's super flexible and there are several widths available. There is also something called konny but I'm not a huge fan of it.

I have always wondered what the best way is! The pipes are a clever idea. I use simple wooden trestles so they can just unfold and "rest".

Hi, I always place my patterns on the leather and then use weighted door stoppers on top (mostly in the center) to avoid movement of the patterns. This was a handy trick I learned in school. Then I put a metal ruler on the edges of the patterns and cut along the ruler edge. Make sure you have a sharp knife. This way I always have sharp and exact cuts, right to the milimetre! The leather pieces always come out as an exact copy of the pattern.