top of page
Forum Posts
martin
Nov 25, 2024
In Help From The Community
Quite often, I want templates (for bags, wallets) to be good to use a few times. Currently, I print out onto paper and then glue the paper to paper card. But, I find paper card not really durable with the edges getting less accurate after its first use. The templates need to be easily cut out in the first place but then suitable for more than one bag. What does anyone recommend? I’ve seen 1mm MDF, 1.5mm ABS but I don’t know what is easily cut (craft knife), doesn’t shatter etc. thanks
1
1
50
martin
Nov 17, 2024
In Help From The Community
I’ve been asked to make a very special present for someone. It’s a travel bag/doctor bag, although with two loops handles instead of the single rigid handle. The frame is 20” x 5” - much larger than the normal I think. I accept that it is unlikely that there is a pattern for exactly that size (I could only hope) but does anyone know of a pattern that could be easily multiplied to reach the size I need? Thanks in advance
2
9
88
martin
Feb 07, 2021
In Share Your Projects
I've got orders (well, requests from family) for two handbags which are slightly larger than the ones I previously made. I'm not sufficiently confident to design one from scratch and so I am on the road of using a pattern from someone else - undoubtedly making a few changes. My customers (non-paying) have been shown various designs and, without knowing the maker, have both plumped for a design based upon the Kelly bag from Hermes. I'm going to be using some baby pink saffiano for the exterior; burnt orange Cordura for the interior and hardware from leathercraftpattern.com. The purpose of this post is to ask if there is interest in me taking photos of the build? Please don't think that these photos and script will be good enough to use this as a guide for yourself but there may well be things in there that you will know not to do in the own make. As ever, I've got a lot of things on the go at the moment including finishing a very large coffee table from live edge London Plane and making two or three hall tables from English oak, so progress may be slow. But this weather is better in my craft room than in my workshop
0
3
130
martin
Feb 07, 2021
In Share Your Projects
I have a few quite nice fountain pens from when i was working and I wanted to keep them somewhere else than just loose in a drawer. So, I started to look at designs for pen cases. The cases that I like, and I thought protected the pens the best, were mainly cigar cases - although you can buy molds for similar to the one I intend to make from leathercraftpattern.com. So, molded leather - which I had not tried before. The first step was to make a mold. I had a number of plastic test tubes which were about the right size; no end of timber and I am quite used to resin work (with cabinetry). So I made a very simple mold. The tubes were epoxied to the base of the mold. The sides of the mold were measured to come half way up the depth of the tubes, i.e. sides equal to the radius of the tubes. The next time that I was mixing resin, I mixed a little extra and filled the mold to the top of the sides. This meant that the resin also came halfway up the tube sides. I then soaked some thin goatskin (for the inside lining of the case) and some faux ostrich hide (this is my first time doing this). I molded them both to the form with a bone folder and then cramped on some offucts of timber. Now to let it dry. When dry, it would form one half of the bottom part of the case. I would then repeat this exactly for the second half and then glue and stitch those two parts together, stitching up the two channels between the tubes as well. That would complete the lower half. I'm not sure about the top half yet. I think that I mold more layers onto the bottom parts so that they would slip over the lower half when complete. Obviously, i couldn't stitch the channels on the top half as it wouldn't slide over the lower half. I may, therefore, just make a simple wooden mold for the top halves. Who knows yet? . How will it turn out? Will it be a disaster? Will it be good enough on my first attempt or will I learn from it for a second try? Follow my success or disaster and learn from the mistakes.
3
15
97
martin
Jan 13, 2021
In Share Your Projects
Because of a minor operation that got infected, I've not been able to do much recently. one of our sons is a very talented woodworker and he recently bought a new IPad to help him with his designing. I offered to make a leather folder for that and the photographs are the result. He chose the leather and the contrast stitching (I'm not a fan but that is just personal) whilst the burnt orange lambskin suede was my choice. The IPad plastic holder insert is kept in place by two snaps (hence the orange eyes) so that a change of IPad model could be accomodated. it was actually more complicated than I had envisaged for a "simple" folder and I learned a lot from the make. The difficulty in cutting straight accurate lines through several layers when all the padding was in place; the thread (Amy Roke Polyester; but the first time I have had issues with it) fraying several times during stitching. I did a prototype with turned edges but it looked scruffy, partly due to my inept skiving but also due to trying to match the turned edge of the leather to the turned edge of the suede. I've been cabinet making for 40 years and so understand about the striving, and failing, for perfection in a make. I would give myself 7/10 for this - but lessons have been learned. Apologies for the qualoity of the photos - if you think I'm pretty bad at leatherwork, my photography is even worse. You know how some people are able to detail instructions on how to make something and what to do? Well, I am thinking of doing something similar except that mine will be instructions of precisely what NOT to do.
3
6
84
martin
Oct 13, 2020
In Help From The Community
I want to make a high quality leather piece of cabin luggage for my wife and I. I have English bridle leather for it all - 3.5mm for most parts and 2.3mm for the gussets and plan to line with a burnt orange Cordura fabric. Looking around for plans from which I could borrow, I found nothing. Talking to Daniel at Leathercraft Patterns, he said he was working on a pattern. I've waited and now bought that pattern. As usual, the patterns and the instructions seem very good. However, despite the gussets being wider at the top than the bottom (352mm to 253mm), the finished bag's profile is quite pointed at the top - that is, not much of a curve inwards on each side. I'd like my bag to be more rounded (almost gothic arch in profile) but I dont know how to achieve that. I may, of course, just have the wrong idea but I hope not. The LCP instructions tell you to glue the outer sides to the inner sides over a slightly curved form. Perfectly logical. But, for instance, what would happen if I made the form much more curved? I did think about making the sides slightly shorter in order to force the top profile to be squarer, but I dont know. I will make up thin cardboard patterns and see how they go together but can't see how i could replicate on those the curve of the sides (by glueing inner and outer on a form). All you guys who have way more experience than me, please come to my aid! Thanks
0
6
51
martin
Jun 20, 2020
In Say Hello Before Posting
Good morning everyone. My name is Martin and I bought the 6 month plan a couple of weeks ago. I am now retired having sold my business - previously to that, I was MD of a large business employing over 3,500 people. That means 3,500 daily headaches! I have always enjoyed cabinet making and am lucky enough to have a large, well equipped workshop here near Tunbridge Wells in Kent. Over the last 30 years, I have made everything from small jewellery boxes to large pews - always for us, family or friends. Unfortunately, I tire easily these days and wanted to do something that involved a little more sitting down. Leather is like wood in that it is a natural material with you have skills to learn and ideas to use. For me, its all about form and function and striving to reach that level of acceptable perfection. I think that terms "acceptable perfection" is important as it makes me realise that it is practically impossible to reach absolute perfection and unnecessary to do so. The tolerance I work to in wood - within 5/1000 of an inch - are very much good enough for a material which still moves over its life. However, those tolerances in precision metalwork, building engines or spacecraft, are ludicrously too much. So what is acceptably perfect for wood is not for steel and I guess, the same is for leather. I don't think we cut to that level of perfection and don't need to do so. I looked at many ways to learn how to do leather work to as higher standard as possible. its personal, but I'm not interested in rustic leather work but want to strive to make items that are near as possible in quality to the best that there are. The only person, the only course, that I could find was this one. I liked Philip's delivery; his level of skill and design are the ones I want to strive for and his attention to detail with explanation of the why's suit my personality. So that's me. Inevitably, I am going to ask way more questions than provide answers but I will be there
2
2
27
martin
More actions
bottom of page