I'm building the DeHavilland bag and last night I glued my interfacing to the flesh side of the main bag panels. It was the first time I've glued larger pieces of fabric to leather and I found it nearly impossible to get enough PVA onto the surface of the leather and spread evenly before it goes clear and dries. The result is some areas where adhesion is weak to non-existent. I was able to try going really fast (and not nearly as careful/deliberate as I'd like to have done) and get say 80% or so moderately well adhered. Then I went back around the edges after applying the fabric (where adhesion seemed worst) and re-glued those bits as best I could. I'm using Aleene's Tacky Glue. The Evo Stik waterproof PVA that Phil uses in the Techniques of Adhesive video wasn't readily available so I got something inexpensive to try it out. I did a little research and many people seem to use a spray adhesive (3M makes a few popular types) instead of PVA. Do any of you have techniques for getting enough glue down quickly enough or somehow slowing the rate of drying when using PVA on a large panel? Or recommendations for slower drying glues?

Hey Phillip...what are the chances you'd consider producing a pattern design course? I suspect I'm not the only one who would be thrilled to see your tips, tricks and techniques to go from a concept in your mind to a functional pattern. The De Havilland bag would be cool but really any non-flat design (that requires working things out in 3 dimensions) would be amazing.

I'm working through the videos (which are exceptional) and am gathering up supplies! I have a few questions from what I've been through so far: 1. I don't have access to a splitter so getting material will be easier if I stick with one material for the handles, zip reinforcements, handle attachments, etc. The handle video recommended thinner veg tan with glued, thin chrome tan, but I'm assuming something like 2mm veg is fine, even for the handles (using no chrome tan backer)? 2. For the main zip that's cut down from a longer length, is there a reason it's better or preferred to end up with a bottom zip stop on one end but separate/split stops on the other end? The last zip I installed using a cut-to-length zip, I used a bottom stop on both ends by running the pull all the way through and off of the zip, peeling the zip apart at the bottom just a bit, and re-inserting the pull and sliding it partway up the zipper. That leaves the zip closed on both ends with the pull installed, allowing you to crimp closed end stops on both ends. Just making sure I'm not missing an obvious reason the split stops are used. High end makers I've seen on IG have used the split stops too so I'm assuming there's a less I've yet to learn. 3. For the bag bottom veg tan reinforcement, I didn't see a callout about recommended thickness but I'm guessing something around 3mm? Thanks!

Tried searching the forum and blog but haven't been able to find any pictures of a finished De Havilland bag. I haven't watched all of the videos yet but I jumped to the end of video 3 and I guess there's still more to come. There's a little thumbnail of what might be it on the knife-making blog post. Would just like to see an example of the finished project before I begin it :). Thanks!