With every new skill, one has to begin somewhere, so before going down the path of more complex items and techniques, I thought I would venture and try a simple card holder that I saw on Pinterest.
It is amazing how much one can learn when you actually start applying the information gained through the videos into actual practice. To qualify this, I’m an absolute beginner, having made a couple of kits (sewing only, no cutting) and have watched all of the technique videos on the site once (starting to work through them a second time as I’ve realized just how much I missed the first time.
While this is the very first item I’ve constructed from scratch, this truly is from scratch as I didn’t even have a pattern, only the picture of a finished item to use as a reference. How hard can that be I thought. A couple of simple cuts, a few stitches and viola, I’m finished with my first leather project. Well, it was wasn’t quite that simple. While I’m reasonably happy with the result for a first attempt, the next one I make will be infinitely better.
So what exactly did I learn in this process. Mostly I’m sharing this to help myself and others, especially in the notion that good judgement comes from bad judgement, so please use my bad judgement for your good judgement. I think in the most recent Q&A video, Phil you mentioned that when learning just finish your item, rather than cutting it in half. So I kept going and kept learning.
1) This is now a change purse that began life as a small card holder. I thought by taking a card, placing on the leather and adding some space along the edges would be sufficient (it wasn’t!) Next time, beginning with a pattern might be a better choice.
2) When marking out the divider line for pricking placement, don’t forget that you are folding it, and therefore don’t need a divider line across the bottom (which becomes the top of the opening when folded. Thankfully the flap folds over and covers the permanent mark.
3) Using French curves to make the curve of the flap, was a great idea, if you can keep them even on both sides. Since the curves are constantly different radius’ it can get slightly lopsided in a hurry, requiring additional cuts to try and even things out.
4) while sewing, be more generous with the length of thread between the needles for your first and second saddle stitching attempts. The first side (left) turned out very well, the right side, not so much. Couldn’t put the needles back in at the bottom of the strap (looks a little messed up) as the thread was too short. Needed to cut the thread and start again. Perhaps there is another way I could have handled it beyond unstitching it all.
5) In the stitching video, where it is suggested that one double locks the thread - good advice, wish I was patient enough to double lock instead of just one and have it come out about 4 or 5 times.
6) This is 4.5 oz leather, so where there are the two sides and strap, quite thick to work through. Depth of pricking marks makes a significant difference in ease of getting the awl through.
7) So does the sharpness of the awl - will be watching the awl sharpening video again!!
8) Allow for a narrower flap, because the opening will be smaller once you stitch the strap in, requiring additional cutting so it somewhat works.
9) Realize that different bevels size are actually meant for different size leathers, or I could have been doing something wrong. The size #1 was a little small to round the edges, so a #2 was better the second time around.
10) Know how to actually use the tool in question. As sad as it is, I kept holding the edge tool upside down when first trying to bevel the edge. Also managed to leave a mark in the leather by pushing too hard down while bevelling. More practice required. Also makes me wonder, how I should actually go about sharpening the edge tool when required. Something else to look up.
To master a new area, there is the concept of 10,000 hours of practice. While there are arguments for and against this research, let’s just say I have a long way to go and this was the first step in a journey of a thousand miles. I’m guessing my second step will be that much better.
@denalicat Great post! Thank you for sharing your project, but more importantly your experiences and what you discovered in the process.
I really look forward to seeing what you create next!
Fadi,
Thank you for all of the additional points to consider - they are extremely helpful. I’m keeping a journal of points to remember, and these have all been entered
I tried going into a large sewing store today to search for the French curve and a few other items, but no such luck - will have to search further afield.
Next project is the Bespoke Apron, one for me and one for my son. Thinking this should be in my skill level.
Thanks everyone for the helpful comments, really appreciate the friendly virtual journey I’m embarking on.
Rob
Hello Hello,
I love your spirit and enthusiasm!!! Like you said, keep fighting. Finish the item even if you are not happy with were it is going!
A few pointers:
1- As you said, always always alway make a pattern. At least at first. Later on, you might be able to pull of simple card holders or a folding wallet like this without a pattern. But that will only come from having made so many patterns that the overall dimensions of such items are tattooed in your subconsious. And even then, the item will never be as well made as if you had made a pattern for it.
2- Regarding the strap being tight and the flap needing to be made smaller. Another way to look at that is that you are basically inserting an additional 3mm (approx) under the strap. Think about it, assuming the thickness of your leather is 1.5mm, the strap will need to travel an additional 1.5mm to get over the flap then another 1.5mm to get back down on the other side; that is 3mm extra. So if you wallet is 110mm in width, the strap should be 113mm. That will make your life so much easier. Also, with this, no matter how wide the flap is, it will still go in.
Another way of doing it, if you hate maths, is to glue the strap with the flap closed. That way, the strap will travel above the flap and be glued at the right dimensions.
3- Thread lenght: in the beginning, go for 4 (to 5 times if it is a short line) the lenght of your stitch line. It is better to have more and no need it than to restitch the whole thing because you needed an extra 20mm of thread. We have all been there. With time, you will be able to judge how much you truly need depending on SPI and overall thickness of the project you are stitching.
4- Edge beveller size is usually down to preference. Some people prefer to have barely bevelled edges with a more "straight and flat" look to the edge, some prefer more rounded edges. On your project, I would personally have gone with a #2 on the sides, and #1 on flap and strap. But again, to each his preferences.
Regading how to polish your bevellers, Phil has a tutorial on this in one of his 1hr Q&A Videos on youtube. Found it! it is this one:
It is a the very beginning, around 2min30secs in.
5- An extra tip for future project: Remember to size the width of your strap based on the SPI you are using. This will prevent you from have a prick mark right at the edge of the strap. I will be both structurally weak, and sometimes ugly.
6- I officially bequeath onto @Veronica (Nica) the title of High Marshall of the Usefull Tool Finding Infantry. That graded french curve is BOOM!
That's it for me :)
Glad you posted this. I am a beginner as well and have encountered similar hiccups along the way. As far as French curves go, I use them quite a bit in pattern making (clothes and leather crafting). A good French curve will have cm (of inches) marked on both sides (see picture of mine with both sides marked). When you choose a certain curve, you have to note the number at the top and bottom of that curve. If you want the same curve on the opposite side, flip the French curve and use the noted numbers to create a mirror curve. Please see example in pictures. I hope this helps. The possibilities with the French curve are endless in my humble opinion.