Hey Phil, I have seen you using a step skive for a turned edge (your bell skiver tutorial) but also a tapered skive (stingray card holder pockets). Any particular reason to choose one over the other?
@suarezleatherworks Personally I prefer a step skive if I am going to be installing a lining underneath the turnover (i.e. the box stitched watch case course).
A tapered skive is also good if you are trying to thin the edges of two pieces of leather that you will be stitching together as there is no 'step' that will be visible (i.e. stitching a bag panel onto a gusset).
In the Ray course you will notice that the edge was folded over within the skive, so one side will be tapering down as the other tapers up, this gives you a consistent thickness.
Much also depends on the leather, since soft leathers will be more flexible with your choice of skive, where firm leathers may show inconsistencies more.
I hope that makes sense.
If you have any further course based questions, don't forget we have the Mastermind Group section for all course related queries 👍
@suarezleatherworks Personally I prefer a step skive if I am going to be installing a lining underneath the turnover (i.e. the box stitched watch case course).
A tapered skive is also good if you are trying to thin the edges of two pieces of leather that you will be stitching together as there is no 'step' that will be visible (i.e. stitching a bag panel onto a gusset).
In the Ray course you will notice that the edge was folded over within the skive, so one side will be tapering down as the other tapers up, this gives you a consistent thickness.
Much also depends on the leather, since soft leathers will be more flexible with your choice of skive, where firm leathers may show inconsistencies more.
I hope that makes sense.
If you have any further course based questions, don't forget we have the Mastermind Group section for all course related queries 👍