This is a PDF from Uniters sent to me, explaining how they recommend their edge paints are applied and finished. As far as I'm aware it's freely available to all on request, but they don't seem to advertise it.
Interestingly they are the first I have seen to recommend finishing an edge using heat. They also state the maximum heat to use which is helpful.
What do you think if 'You can bush or buff by rotative brushes'? I have experimented with this in the past with excellent results.
I use a bench grinder and a small felt wheel with a channel removed in the desired shape.
It quickly uniforms the edge, but can just as quickly destroy your work if you're too slow (friction heat build up).
Funny part? 'Let it dry properly (15-20 minutes)' 😂. Maybe in the Sahara desert, but no chance during a damp English winter!
Uniters might make good edge paint products but try and figure thier insane naming system out of anything other than the paints themselves -- and what each EP pre application does. EP filler, EP Thinner, EP Sealer, EP Sealer Neutro Uniters FILLER FULL neutro (edge finishing) Uniters FILLER neutro (Edge finishing) Uniters SEALER (Edge finishing) --I challange you try to FIND any of these bloody products --95% are UK and not U.S. Most are sold out. TRY finding EP Thinner! Try findingf their EP florusents! Try finding their EP Metallics!!!
Hi Phil , Hello eveyone:
This is my brushing machine
( in italian we says : "Spazzolatrice" made in Florence by Saturn )
This machine it's also equipped with brushes dug out to facilitate processing (in which I use to make prototypes or produce bags with colored borders for a famous Florentine house ....
For the my opinion, and I can honestly tell you that to speed up the drying time I use a tannery chemical accelerator inside the color and then in the oven to dry.
There are many techniques, and each house has its own.
For me, waiting 20 minutes for each single piece that makes up the bag means wasting a lot of time and not delivering on time. I know, my work is different from yours, also for the times, I don't have to deliver a single bag, usually there are 20 pieces in 4 days and often there are only 3, with a prototype in the middle. With experience I have learned to use time and the best solutions on the market for companies, to help my work and satisfy the customer who commissions me his production or sampling.
First, the ORLIS S transparent clinging base by Kenda Farben, then the Fenice company color with accelerator when I use the electronic edge dyer, because their color is very liquid and with a long drying time, created to make all edge dyeing machines flow and not block , but I can't wait or apply 5 coats of color, 3 at the most because the purchasing department tells me that it costs too much and therefore the bag goes out of budget.
I also use Uniters, for Mockup samples , with higher cost, they have
a good result , and for me it is the best brand , if you want to create a prototype or a customized bag for a customer , or you are in a leather shop like moynat , and if you are alone and have time with the patience of a cloistered friar ! The color has a thick consistency and 3 coats are enough to have a "pleasant" effect, but as I learned, the last important step is cooking, because the color must stabilize and lock in a strong lasting way at the edges and must not slip off "like spaghetti" as happens in certain bags,.
My working life is more complicated because after delivery, a sample of the bags is chosen, analysed, raped, mistreated, and with various trials and tests it is established whether the product I created complies with company standards.
Yeaaaaah ! it's beautiful to be craftsmen! ;)
Since some people are having so much problems with drying time, luckily I don't living in NC. Maybe set up a drying lamp or a humidifier where there isn't as much humidity. Usually my paint sets up in 15-20 min. I use feniece and United. Sometimes, I've noticed that different bottles of paint can have different viscosities. The paint may vary due to storage issues by the seller. I also find that spreading the paint on thinly, drying, slight sand, another thin layer, drying and heat really works the best. The heat seems to give a more even spread and seals the edge.
I have used Giardini when I first started leathercraft, but it took a very long time to master having a beautiful edge with it because of a very long drying time, you triple the drying time when you use primer and/or top coat… sure it is beautiful when it is all done, but the amount of time spent killed me. Not to mention, ironing really doesn’t work very well. The sad part of it all is that I live in Southern California where there are barely any humidity in the air.
Uniters, on the other hand, it changed my life… I was blown away how quickly it dries and how easily to work with… And now that I read this manual, I am wondering about these primers or fillers…I dont use primers, but I sometime, use Uniters edge paint with Giardini‘s matt finish top coat which works very nicely! So my question is, Do these: Uniters primers and fillers, really work? do they dry quick enough? Has anyone used it before? And does anyone use bake method? who does this? 😅
Thanks for sharing, Phil as it was an interesting read.
That's good to have, thanks. At the end of the day you will always need to use your best judgment and experience, I mean where exactly does the "leather with good absorption" end and the "leather with adhesion problems" start? You don't know, you have to gauge it and make your decision. I use Fenice because that's what I can get quickly and reliably, but regardless what the instructions say I found the best combination of good/fast/practicable is to finish the edge paint with some acrylic gloss. Two coats with a little sanding in between, melt a little with alcohol on my finger and then acrylic, again with my finger. Nobody does it like that (that I've seen) but it works for me and takes away the need for perfect sanding. I don't want to spend a day+ edge painting each bag.
Interesting. I never really developed a like for Uniters because I could never figure out how to finish it properly with heat, so I just stuck with Vernis. Following this guide might be helpful. Everybody on the interwebs seems to love Uniters. I never hear anybody talk about Vernis or anything else.
i use heat to finish on Fenice and it works great. . But the heat does NOT work well with Giardini. I have been meaning to try Uniters and heard it works well with heat. I"ll have to find a USA supplier. Thanks of sharing,
Wait 15-20 hours they mean? Last week, i sanded an edge 4 hours after painting, it was still liquid from the inside...
I am curious about the buffing, i will definitely try it soon!
Sounds like EP Filler is similar to Giardini's dense base coat, if one of the purposes is to fill cracks as well? I've only used the primer that RM Leather Supply carries, which they call EP Coat. I'm curious which that falls under with the 3 that Uniters mentions in the PDF - EP Filler, EP Full, EP Sealer