Hello everyone. When I started leatherworking, I bought a set of Japanese stitching irons with diamant holes meant to punch through all layers. Very soon I found that the holes were too big for me and bought Crimson Hides and KS Blade Punch irons because of the thin teeth. The Crimsons are very nice but I dont punch through all the layers anymore instead using the awl. So in the moment I use KS Blad Punch irons to prick. I dont like it. The teeth are too sharp and I cant really controll if I want to prick 1.2-1.5 veg tan leathers.
I would only use them to punch through all leyers.
So when I am now looking what pricking irons to buy for me only using to prick, what should I buy? I see that Kevin Lee and others have very thin teeth and very high teeth. That makes me think, that they are meant to punch through all the way. The thinner the teeth, the better? I understand, that its bad when you punch through all layers and have huge holes is bad, but when you are using the awl, it will be the thinnest hole possible and the pricked mark is only on the surface so thickness is not too important?
In the moment I tend to buy Wuta pricking irons because Blanchard is too expensive for me.
But I am interested in the Kevin Lee ones if these are good for only pricking.
Maybe someone owns Wuta Pricking Irons and Kevin Lee Irons and can point out the difference of these Irons?
Every thought, every tipp is helpfull!
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@kilian A very interesting post and a good question.
I use prongs of various widths for different applications:
Soft or thin leather:
I choose thinner prongs, as the leather is not firm enough to hold any extreme angles anyway.
So wide prongs in soft or thin leather will result in mild angles and over-cut corners exposed. Similar to the jokers smile.
Firm or thick leather:
If decorative angles are your thing, then here is where you can take advantage of a wide prong pricking iron and/ or a wide blade awl.
Personally I find most modern pricking irons/ stitching irons are way too thin and result in a mediocre stitch, unless you chase them up with a wider awl.
But a tiny sharp slit requires more care when chasing as they are hard to see and it is easier to penetrate just in front or behind the slit.
This can be a nightmare with soft black chrome tan.
As for sharpness, I find that you don't actually need sharp prongs. If the tips are slightly blunt and slightly rounded (no sharp 90 degree corner) then the leather is compressed as it is hammered into.
This gives you a nicer looking stitch in my opinion, but it also prevents the grain layer of the leather from being pulled out and folded over as you pull a stitch tight (which you may or may not have experienced with heavy surface finishes).
Another benefit is that it also guides the awl into the slit better, similar to a funnel.
Finally, when I get a new finely polished pricking iron, I swipe it back and forth length ways a couple times on fine grit sandpaper ↔ / / / / / / / / ↔
These micro scratches grab the leather and stops it from moving laterally on hard, smooth or waxy leather. It has no effect on the outcome, but you avoid any movement as you raise your hammer.
I hope this helps.