Hi Guys,
Recently I spoke to some leather crafters that I know.
I asked about the topic of using the needle awl technique and how to get both side of the stitching straight, neat and nice. I was told that the way to do that is to punch your prongs all the way through the leather.
I've been practicing marking one side of the leather, gluing 2 pcs of leather together and applying the needle awl saddle stitching technique for 6-8 months. I still can't get one side of the stitching straight.
I want to achieve to the level of a hermes craftsman stitching. I understand that it takes a lot of practice but I wish to find out if I'm practicing the right way.
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Hi Ben,
Thank you for the pic. It looks to me that the angle (on both axis) that you enter with the awl is changing as you stitch, this really does come down to practice. Simply changing the way you sit while stitching or you shoulder gets tired and you don't raise your elbow as high can make a change on the rear side.
As you are using a softer leather there (I assume chrome tanned?) the leather isn't going to help guide the awl as well as on firmer vegetable tanned leather. So it may be worth experimenting with this.
Philip
Some fantastic advice there guys! really great to see the ideas flowing.
One of the big issues with rear stitch inconsistencies is the angle of the thread when pulling in the stitch tight.
If you pull the thread straight out to the side you won't be encouraging the angles on the rear (this assumes you are casting your thread).
This is something I discuss in 'The Techniques Of Hand Stitching' which I believe you have seen.
I also like to use a French saddlers clam which allows me to keep my head and body still as I stitch which I find helps with consistency.
For example, these are the stitches on the rear side of this prototype card holder and all done with an awl through 3mm leather and a saddlers clam (I only see it when I'm done):
Now, if you still are struggling with consistency, your best bet is to make a 30 second video with your phone, upload it to YouTube (you can have it 'unlisted' so only those on here can see it), then post the link on here to that we can actually see what you're doing.
Phil
Im in the same position. I just bought an awl and am forcing myself to learn to use it.
What I’ve been doing is scribing a line on both sides of the test piece The same distance from the edge. I then use a pricking iron on one side to mark my angles.
When I pierce the leather with the awl, I make sure that the awl pierced through the center of the line on the other side. This will also help me make a straight stitch the length of the piece. If I practice that long enough, hopefully I get used to the motion.
The line helps me see if my arm is too high or low when I pierce
I have the same issue. When using an awl my back is just not as good as the front. I find that as the thickness of leather increases, it becomes more difficult to maintain the constant angle with my awl. Perhaps it needs to be more sharp so it goes through like butter. I've seen Japanese crafters using a cork board flat on a table and puncture the awl holes one by one. However, thick leather is still an issue for me with that method as well.
Hi Ben,
I would like to give others the chance to reply to you first, but I just want to clarify:
'I still can't get one side of the stitching straight'
Do you mean to say that you can't get angles on both sides?
Thank you,
Philip