I thought id open up a discussion around a topic that so many struggle with :) And maybe @Philip can share his experience from his latest weekender project.
I very often agonise on the strategy on how to add the lining to the bag. In case you have a zipper you usually finish the body of the bag & the lining seperately and then marry them. What i dont like though is handstitchting through lining especially on an already formed bag (compared to when you can clamp single pieces on your stitching pony or whatever you use). It can make your stitchline messy on the inside as you cant draw a stitch line also it is annoying when the bag moves around or you always have to "bend inside" the bag to see the awl coming through. Also when the lining is quite floppy it can be difficult to get the awl trough at exactly a straight line. So either you heavily glue the lining or attach a leather strap. Still you have the problem that you have to sew on an already finished bag.
Currently I am working on a backpack with a front and a back panel, gussets all around (that is split in two pieces for the upper half as I install a zipper going around the corners half way down) and welting. I have some "hidden" seams, those are connecting the bottom gusset with the front and back part and the welting. I place the nice side of the leathers together, sew and then turn it inside out.
In this case I will use an enforced leather piece as the bottom part of the lining so i can leave the lining open first and attach the lining to the zipper and the gusset before attaching it to the bag. It allows me to make a "turned egde" for the lining. It means i dont fold a nice edge on the lining but place the raw cut under the zipper, stitch and then "turn" the lining so that you can't see the seam.
Hope this was clear - otherwise pls ask.
What is your strategy and ideas?
@austrian leather freakDo you use any cord/rope inside your piping/welt ?Or nothing inside the piping?
I have tried 2 methods for fabric lining a turned bag. First method was to line each piece before joining them, then stitch bag inside out (typical turned bag process). At this point, before turning and assuming fabric lining, you have fabric on the outside. To cover the edges I added a binding. If I want to use fabric binding, I use sewing machine to attach. I’ve found it nearly impossible to hand sew binding in this situation. I have also used leather for binding but getting stitching to look nice isn’t easy. You are stitching through many layers.
Second method is what I’ll call “Build 2 and Join” method. I thought this method worked best. I made a the leather outside bag. I made the lining bag. The third part of process is to join the bags. There are a couple ways to do this. The method I liked best was to turn leather bag inside out. Fabric bag is good side out. Insert the leather bag into the fabric bag. At this point the good side of fabric is outside and leather bag and lining are wrong side to wrong side. Then I stitched the zipper opening. I used leather trim around lining zipper opening to make it easier to hand sew. I also tack stitched the corners of the lining to the leather so the lining stayed in place. At this point the two bags are connected and turned inside out. Then just turn bag and you are done.
I know a couple short paragraphs doesn’t really explain in detail. I‘m happy to expand with what I’ve tried.
A lot of this depends on what you are using for your lining. I'm not quite following exactly what you mean but I'm assuming that you are asking for advice on a flip out bag where you are stitching through lining, leather, piping, leather and lining again.
I wouldn't do this with material due to a weave and a pricking iron not being the best of bedfellows, so this is where I would use a sewing machine.
You can use an adjustable creaser to mark a line on the lining if using suede or a vanishing marker in a compass.
I hope this helps.