Hello,
I am deep in the throes of trying to make a traditional English Bridle briefcase. I want it to be a double 3 piece gusset with lining. I already have a side of 6oz bridle leather but I haven't ordered the lining yet. More on that in a sec. I am still trying to work on the logistics of the design on paper and with scrap leather.
My question... What is the best way to install the lining on the 3 piece gusset? Being that I want there to be a double gusset, I am running into a situation where I have 6 pieces of leather meeting in the middle of the bag where the two gussets come together (bridle, lining, bridle, lining, bridle, lining) and it is obviously very bulky. I have a simple mock up (using 3oz veg tan as a stand in for the lining) in the photos.
I did try to skive down the bridle leather on the flesh side fairly substantially (used both a french edger and a paring knife to help with consistency) but I am still left with a rather thick piece to sew through.
I really want to sew this bag using an awl and pricking irons. I am afraid my stitching is going to look like hell on that middle section where the two gussets come together though.
A couple of my thoughts....
**I could probably skive even more and then work out a way to skive the liner as well.
**Maybe I could buy some reverse pricking irons and punch both sides to try to stay consistent since it is a thicker piece of leather.
**I could try to pre punch the sections but I think that would only work if I used stitching chisels and I want to avoid that if possible.
**I could buy some of this double sided stitching nippers for the middle section and that would probably get me some straight lines. Again, I would like to avoid this option if possible.
Final question... would Alan Chevre Sully goat in 1.1mm (2.5 oz) be a good option for the lining? I have never worked with it before but seems nice and durable.
Thank you and sorry for the ultra specific long winded post!
-Sam
A bit late to the party here, I’ve had a similar project where I fold and glue a piece of lining (fabric) over a stiffener (salpa), stitched at the folded edge, and used the whole thing as a divider.
Another thought for the back of the unfinished divider... Fiebings has colored Resolene. I haven't used it, but Phil mentioned it when I was talking about using diluted edge paint to finish the backs of leather. I used a 50/50 mixture of water and paint and just built up this coat until it was where I wanted it. Easy and quick. And you can pick your color.
Hey mate,
don't really have experience with what you are asking (Gusset wise), but here is a thought:
You said you ordered the back side of the leather unfinished. Why not think outside of the box and finish it yourself (Tokonole does wonder for that). It is a time consuming tasks and you will discover new muscles around the shoulder area that you did not know existed, but it could be a solution.
Regarding the lining, if you are glugin the liner to the 6oz briddle, buy your Goat Sully split down. I would go down to 0.6mm thickness for the liner (Again, if fully glued). I currently have a pice of 0.5mm split sully, and the Gods themselves could not tear it. It is really strong stuff.
Thank you that is a very good insight! I certainly would put some kind of turned edge or binding on the divider. I am probably going to be stuck with lining it as I ordered the leather "unfinished" so the flesh side is a bit rough and couldn't be left unlined.
Maybe I should just think outside the box and skip using the bridle leather entirely for the divider and use some of the goat along with some kind of stiffener. I do not have any experience with that at all, but I see that RMLS has some for sale now. maybe that would help me save weight and I could even fancy it up with a zipper or something. This whole thing has me stressed out! So much money invested in materials ha. Thanks again for your help.