I've seen it mentioned in several sources that when working with synthetics, for example bonding a nylon ripstop to a watch strap, that a solvent based contact adhesive should be used. I do my work on the dining room table and since it's 20 degrees below freezing opening a window isn't really an option (well, that and my house is 100 years old and the windows are painted shut haha) so I'm really trying to avoid harsh fumes.
So I tried a little test. The Aquilum instructions were a bit cryptic but I think what they are saying is that if you have a non-porous item you should bond them while wet and if both items are porous then you should wait until it dries to combine them for a stronger overall bond.
I think the nylon qualifies as non-porous so I put Aquilum 315 on some Herman Oak veg tan and on some ripstop and put the two together while still wet. I pressed it together with my thumbs, didn't hammer or clamp it. 24 hours later I tried to pull it apart and it completely tore the leather. Do I really need a bond stronger than this?
@CrankAddict It's possible that the flesh side fibres on the vegetable tanned leather were weaker and broke earlier than the fibres on the chrome tanned leather (which is generally stronger). Torn fibres usually tell half the story of adhesive strength.
If you noticed that the second peel test using CTL was easier to remove, then I can't fathom why.