Hi guys! I was hoping that you can all help me troubleshoot this issue.
I'm making a curved cut edge bag and I can't get the edges to sit flush to each other on the curved portion. The front and back flaps curve over the gusset like this:
The seam allowance for both is 1/8". The thickness is 2.5mm on this first attempt:
As you can see, the edge of the panel pulls away from the gusset and you can see the flesh side peeking.
I then skived both the seam allowances on the panels and gusset down to 1.5mm, which made it a bit better, but it's still not good enough:
Both the panels and gussets have abrasions where the seam allowances overlap to help the adhesive stick better. (I have tried saregum, contact cement, and double sided tape separately, and they all end up with the same result of not sitting flush.)
Any ideas? I'm hesitant to lower the seam allowance of at least the panel to something smaller than 1/8" because it won't be as strong structurally, but I'm wondering if that is my only option.
Thank you in advance for your time and help!
Hey Hanna,
If I haven't understood wrong, maybe the issue is that the overlapping panel edge protrudes more than what it should.
I've never made that kind of curved edges, however I can imagine it while reading you. If I were you, I would trim 1 or 1,5 mm from the edge so the stitching is nearer the edge. And then I would cross fingers to see if it works.
Perhaps you may want to test this with another piece of leather before proceeding with your project.
Cheers,
-Maru
Hey Hannah,
Just to make sure I understand the problem, you are trying to make a rolled edge around the gusset, right?
If that's what you are trying to do, then i would guess the 1.5mm is the issue, i tried it a few times (not on a project, on a concept i was trying to come up with), had to skive down to about 0.6mm for it to be acceptable. 1.5mm thickness is too much, the leather still has too much body and offers resistance to the way you want to curve it.