I am particularly fond of the weekender by Carl Friedrik and in the process of figuring out how to go about making it. Luckily, much of what I've learned here at LCMC can be incorporated into many aspects of this bag however the gusset construction is new to me. I've created several test pieces so I understand how the construction works but haven't made a bag using this technique.
The attached image shows the pattern I created as well as the actual CF weekender. I will be making the gusset slightly shorter and narrower to offset the thickness of the leather.
It also looks like the strip of leather around the gusset is made up of 4 strips - 2 "U-shaped" strips which match the curved corners of the bag and 2 straight strips which make up the sides of the bag. Not exactly sure how thick these strips need to be though. Just wondering if anyone has built something like this and has any helpful tips to share.
Probably the biggest tip would be that paper gets you close, but paper isn't 2.5mm thick, or whatever final thickness you'll use. Prototype using craft foam with a thickness as close to your leather choice as possible.
Also, the gusset could be one piece instead of four(?) on the CF. Not only will one piece make installation easier, but it'll look more premium too.
Hi there,
Looks like a beautiful bag! Very smooth. Although I have done this type of guesset before I'm not sure if what I have to add would add much value given I'm only really just starting LCMC courses.
I found that you can use a fairly straight strip that is positioned/bent where needed, adding stiffness to corners where the outter edge is stretched/compressed in/around curves; works alot less well on tight corners - but unsure if that is common practice or not.
This could be an obvious one, but balancing the weight of the edge of the panels vs the gusset I found was a really helpful insight - though balancing is the key word as I think that past a certain point, it's all choice. I've found that if the panel is say, 2mm thick, a 1mm guesset (or 1.5 for a stiffer/more rigid look) works well. That ends up making for a 3mm thick seam along the edge, with a 2mm internal seam for the gusset panel and "strip" - that kind of works in my head, but perhaps 1.5mm would create a better balance (?).
I have only really worked with Kangaroo and Veg Tan, so all of the above is based on my understanding of how the above would all work with those types of leather.
Good luck with it! I'd love to hear what you learn/find out about the installation of this type of guesset.
Laura