Beginner with trouble using Weaver leather pricking chisels

I'll be a little blunt....I have seen the Weaver chisels and they don't seem to be any better than the cheap black Tandy Craftool chisels. I don't know where you came to know about them, but I know that Corter Leather used them all the time in his videos when he was sponsored by Weaver, but now he's sponsored by The Buckle Guy and has changed chisels to, shall we say, more refined chisels (in fact, I believe he helped "develop" TBG's new pricking irons.) He made using them look easy and his stuff was rustic, but nice looking. but definitely not what I would call "fine" leatherwork. I'm not knocking his products, just pointing out the aesthetic nature of them. At any rate, you can spend a little time tuning them up, but I will guess that now you are subscribed to Phil's videos, you will probably want to upgrade your pricking irons sooner than later. Just my two cents. Hope that helps.

Looking at the pic that's uploaded, I can see the rough surface on the tips of the prongs. That alone (as Philip said) is enough to make things difficult. I also notice that the prongs aren't especially sharp, My recommendation is to work up a small jig or block of wood that will hold the chisel at a fixed angle. Preferably this will match the existing angle. Then, start on med-high grit sandpaper and work your way up to about 1000 grit. Work slowly with the coarser grits to just remove the existing tool marks and set good angles. Then, use the finer grits to simply polish the chisel tips. It's okay if you get a tiny screwdriver look to it - the shape of the prong will take care of it. Once you have the easy to access angles handled, do like Philip suggested and polish down the remaining sides of the points. Additionally, you might find it easier to drive it through thicker leather with a bit more hammer. A rubber mallet will have too much bounce, so I suggest something else - a durable plastic head hammer is a good option. Something that is often overlooked is to be sure you have a very solid surface to work against. It needs to have a lot of mass backing up the leather - otherwise, the surface absorbs some of the energy from the hammer/mallet blow, which reduces the energy going into the punch.

Hey. It may be the way the prongs have been cut. If they aren't smooth, this can make it difficult to both hammer in and remove. If there is enough room, you can place a piece of fine grit sandpaper onto a thin piece of steel like a smaller ruler, this should allow you to get between and remove some of the roughness.

Feel free to upload an image so I can advise a little better. 5mm is pretty huge though, so the prongs may just be really thick making it hard to use.